|
|
|
Want free gardening advice? Send me your questions!
2008 Answers - 2007 Answers - 2006 Answers
Answers to Your Questions:
I planted a Tonto Crape Myrtle on 8/14/08 and it looks to be shriveling up and all of the leaves are falling off. I dug the hole twice the width of the plant and the root ball is level with the lawn. I have been watering it for about a hour every evening. What did I do wrong and what can I do to correct it? Houston, Texas If the leaves are getting dry and curled, it is because there is not enough water getting to the leaves. Since you are watering it for an hour each day, it is not due to lack of water in the soil. The roots may be drowning if water is standing in the hole too long. Check the soil moisture at the bottom of the planting hole by digging down next to the original root ball that came with the crape myrtle. If the soil is not just moist but wet, then you are watering too much and need to let the roots dry out. Wait until the soil is barely moist about 2/3 of the way down in the hole before watering again. This will be 3 to 7 days depending on your weather and soil. A moisture meter is very helpful for checking deep soil moisture without digging.
Other possibilities include windburn during transport home if the leaves were exposed to high speeds or a long trip. If the plant was in shade in the nursery and you now have it in full sun, the leaves may have sunburn which will not kill the plant but will likely result in all the leaves falling off before new leaves come out. If you are watering it for an hour every day, though, it is likely that the roots are drowning.
I have sprayed weed killer in an area of my garden. How long to I need to wait until I plant a fern? Once all the weeds are dead, you may plant. The weed killer will not affect new transplants once it dries, but to make sure you got all the weeds and won't have to spray around the new fern, wait until all the weeds have turned brown.
We bought several sweet broom plants earlier this spring for a curbside planting area. They looked great with the thick yellow blooms. Then without any apparent symptoms, one plant began to dry up and was dead in a couple of days. We have had that same occurrence four times now, we have lost half our initial planting of sweet broom plants. They are in well drained, partial sun area. Any ideas? Oklahoma The most common cause of the situation you describe is too much water on the roots. If the roots stay wet too long, they can not operate well and the top of the plant will wilt and begin to dry. The natural response of the gardener is to water the plant more, which only worsens the condition. If a plant is wilting and does not recover within an hour or two after watering, it probably has too much water on the roots. Better yet, check the soil moisture a few inches down near the original root ball before watering. If the soil is wet below the surface, do not add additional water, and rake back any mulch to help the soil dry more quickly. Wait until the soil is nearly dry a few inches down before watering, and then water thoroughly and wait until the soil is mostly dry before watering again.
Thanks for the advice! I have one more question about these plants. In describing my situation, I didn't let you know about other particulars. In May 2008, we bought seven plants intially. We had to drive about two hours before getting them home. As we arrived home, one plant was already showing signs of wilting. That plant was dead by next morning, we thought due to shock or something along those lines. We planted the remaining six plants and were careful not to over water. A week later another plant showed signs of wilt, I could not find insects or signs of leaf discoloration. That plant was dead in 24 hours. We had no further incidents until last week when a third plant started to wilt, (we live in west-central Oklahoma and the temps have been near or over 100 for weeks), again dry soil and no outward signs of insects or disease. Are there systemic diseases for these plants?
The first plant probably dried out on the drive home. Heat inside the car or drying winds in a truck bed can quickly dehydrate the foliage. My guess is that the first plant dropped all its dead leaves, but it is likely that the stems were still alive and may have been able to releaf in time. In a situation like this, is it best to cover the foliage to protect it from wind, and once arriving at home, place the plants in the shade and water them well, including wetting the foliage.
I do not know of any major (death causing) systemic diseases of sweet broom, with the exception of root rots caused primarily by overwatering. I doubt this is the case. With the weather data you supplied, I believe that the leaves were drying out faster than the roots could supply water. A freshly-planted shrub has a limited root system and cannot always supply enough moisture to support the leaves. This is especially the case when temperatures are over 86 degrees, since extra water is used for evaporation to cool the plant tissues. Protect your remaining plants by providing them with shade from burlap, shade cloth, or even an umbrella suspeded over the plant, with plenty of room underneath for air circulation. Check the soil moisture regularly, but you will likely find that the plants will need water nearly every day. On extra hot days, an additional watering at 3 pm will help because this is the time that plants are generally under the most water stress. If a plant is wilting, moisten the leaves as well so that the leaves can absorb some moisture directly, and the leaf tissue can cool off.
I have been trying to propagate a purple clematis to no avail. Clematis do very well here and this one is very common but I do not know the name. I have tried rooting new spring growth in soil, and in just water. I have dipped the stems in rooting hormone to try to help, but no success. They seem to last a long time staying green but never grow a root. Coeur d'Alene, Idaho It sounds like you are doing everything right. Expect at least six to eight weeks for roots to begin developing, and pot up the cutting when roots are one inch long. Take many cuttings as it is likely only a fraction will successfully root. The following comes from Clematis for Small Spaces by Raymond Evison, a world-renowned clematis breeder: "Cuttings from late spring- to early summer-flowering large-flowered cultivars should, if possible, be taken before they start to flower in spring... The best type of cutting is one where the leaves have developed fully and are neither too hard nor too soft... 'semi-ripe' cuttings. Take a stem with several nodes if possible, and if the stem is slightly sticky to the touch this is ideal. Cut the stem 0.5 in above the node and 1.5 in below the node. Take off one of the leaves, thus reducing the leaf area by fifty percent... It is always a good idea to take cuttings from the mother plant in the early morning before the sun starts to dehydrate the foliage. Once the cuttings are made, I like to put them in a polyethylene bag and place them in the kitchen fridge for two to three hours; they then rehydrate and are in the best possible condition..." We have several holly bushes along our front walkway. One of them is losing leaves and turning pale yellow. Another seems to have a dead spot on the top middle about a foot wide. The others are a little lighter in color except for one that is deep green and is full of foliage. I am concerned about the cause being something that can spread to all of them, but don't want to be hasty in pulling the worst one out either if it is something that can be fixed. They are pretty mature bushes measuring 3 or 4 feet wide and about 2 feet tall. We also have found a lot of Japanese beetles and have been given a wide range of advice about how to treat from chemicals to bags, but we aren't sure which may be best. They seem to be focusing on our Japanese maples, our fire bush, and my hydrangeas.
There is a very nice thick lawn, and although we would like to train our two dogs to only do their business in the mulched areas this may take some time, and in the mean while we have a lot of yellow dead spots. Is there something I can use to balance the soil out to get the grass to then grow back? Or even a preventative measure to prevent more spots? Columbus, Ohio The problem with your holly sounds as if it has too much water on the roots. It is possible that, even with the same amount of water given to each bush, the drainage under this particular holly is poor, and the roots are sitting in water too long after rain or irrigation. This problem generally results in yellowing leaves that drop off, particularly at the bottom of the plant and in the inner parts where less light is received. Check the soil moisture a few inches below the surface, and if it is wet, help it dry out by removing any mulch that may be around this plant.
Japanese beetles will eat over 300 different plants. Beetle traps (bags) use a floral lure and a pheromone lure to attract beetles to the general vicinity of the bag. If there are plants susceptible to Japanese beetles near the trap, they will actually get more damage due to the attraction of beetles to the area. Place beetle traps at least 75 feet away from plants damaged by beetles. Spray plants that are under attack with an insecticide labeled for Japanese beetles and the plants in question. This will kill the beetles, although they will still have to eat a little of the plant in order to get the insecticide. Also, if you haven't already done so, use a grub killer in your lawn right away. The beetles are laying eggs in your lawn and you will have damage caused by the grubs this fall if you do not act now to prevent this.
The spots in the lawn from dog urine are caused by an overdose of fertilizer. You may notice that the grass around the dead spots is actually darker green and grows taller, up to the point where the urea in the urine was too much and burned the grass out. The only way to prevent this (besides training) is to flush the area with water to dilute the urine. There should be no problem growing grass in these spots if the fall when temperatures have cooled (September is a good time), but you will have to water the seedlings at least once a day and keep the dogs away so they don't trample the new grass. Sometimes it is easier to transplant sod from another area of the lawn and seed all in one spot. The sod will need at least a s much watering as the seed, but at least the dogs will be able to run in that area.
My vegetable garden was accidentally sprayed with weed killer. The plants survived. Will the vegetables be edible? South Dakota If the plants themselves were not touched by weed killer, (only the soil and weeds got sprayed) then the vegetables will be fine to eat. If the spray got on the plants, I would not eat the vegetables since most weed killers are absorbed by the plants and circulated through the plant tissues. There will be weed killer in the vegetables.
I need to kill grubs in my yard, but I also need to kill weeds. Can I do both at the same time or do I have to wait for a period of time in between? If I have to wait, what do I do first? Michigan There is no interaction between grub killer and weed killer, but because of the way they work, I would recommend putting them on the lawn in this order: First, apply the grub killer and water it in to the lawn right away. The active ingredient (imidacloprid) breaks down in sunlight, so it is important to water it in right away. Once the lawn has dried, use the liquid lawn weed killer. This will work best on a dry lawn with no rain or water for 24 hours. Another reason to apply the grub killer first is because we are approaching the end date for its effectiveness (around August 15).
Would you happen to know what this is that attacks my tomato plants from the base of the plant upwards each year? What do I need to do to get rid of it? Charles Town, West Virginia Your tomato plants seem to have either early blight or septoria leaf spot, both of which are diseases caused by fungus. Trim off all leaves that have these spots and put them in the trash (do not compost them). Do the same for any leaves that may have already fallen off and are lying on the ground. These leaves will serve as sources of infection for the rest of the plant.
Treat the plant with a fungicide containing captan, and repeat every 7 to 10 days until the weather turns drier. Avoid wetting the leaves during watering, as this promotes the infection. Fertilize the plants to keep them growing well. Next year, plant your tomatoes in a different location since the disease spores can survive in the soil and infect the new plants when rain splashes them onto the leaves.
I have a burning bush that was put in about three or four years ago. It was doing fine and turned bright red in the fall. However, this spring and summer it never leafed out and looks totally dead. What could be wrong? Why would it die, and is it too late to do anything about it? Oneonta, New York After being planted for so long, your burning bush should have been established well enough to survive on its own without additional fertilizer, water or winter protection. Something seems to have happened between fall and early spring, since the shrub never broke bud and began to leaf out.
Two possibilities will explain most occurrences such as this. First possibility: the roots were too wet over the winter and rotted before spring. This could happen if it was watered excessively or the winter was exceptionally wet. Second possibility: Animals such as rabbits or voles have chewed around the base of the shrub, girdling all its stems. I lean toward the first possibility because a girdled burning bush that has been in the ground for this long would probably send up a few shoots from the roots that you would certainly have noticed (unless rabbits were eating these also).
The shrub is definitely dead if it has not leafed out by now. You should have no worries about planting another one in the same spot, but if it does appear chewed around the base, I would take steps to protect the new shrub from animals, possibly including wire mesh and repellents.
I received flower bulbs in the fall that should have been planted in December or January. I live in zone 8. Is there any hope for these bulbs? Is there a way I can store for planting in the fall? Meridian, Mississippi Your best approach will be to plant them now. They will be thrown off their regular schedule, but after one year should grow and bloom normally. Otherwise, store the bulbs in a cool, dark, dry place. Plant them as soon as possible in the fall. If they are still good, they will be firm and heavy. If they are light and papery and easily compress when slightly squeezed, throw them away because they will no longer grow.
The county just completed repaving our street including putting in new curbs, driveways and sidewalks. This resulted in the removal of our tree lawn and most of our front yard. As our back yard was already pure weed with not a patch of decent grass left anywhere, we decided to just take the whole thing up. We sprayed at least three different times with weed and grass killer products with a full weeks wait between each application. We then rototilled. We knew that re-doing a lawn shouldn't be done until fall or spring, but because of the street and sidewalk construction, we felt we had no other choice. In the meantime, the heavy and constant rain keeps us from working in the yard. What is the best way to re-establish our lawn? What grasses should we use, how best to fertilize, etc., all in light of this being the end of June? East Cleveland, Ohio It won't be easy, but I think you have no choice but to go ahead and start a new lawn. The best time to start a lawn is in fall, from mid-August to September, and the second best time is from mid-April through May. Summer temperatures are generally too hot for grass to grow and establish quickly, and you will need to water up to four times per day on hot, sunny, windy days.
Apply a grass seed starter fertilizer with your spreader. Scatter grass seed across your prepared soil and cover with no more than one-eighth of an inch of peat moss to conserve moisture. Water thoroughly and keep the soil surface moist all the time. This is the critical step. The soil should always appear dark from being moist; if it is turning light, you need to water. Heavy rains will move soil and grass seed around, so you may have to reseed in areas where the seed has been washed away.
You will get a lot of weeds coming up with the grass seed. These seeds have lain dormant in the soil until they were unearthed by tilling. Do not worry about the weeds until the grass is well established and has grown enough to require mowing at least four or five times.
You might consider using sod. Sod will not be as affected by heavy rain, but it is more expensive and will need to be watered long after grass from seed will have been established.
I suggest using a blend of at least three tall fescue varieties for your lawn, seeded at a rate of 8-9 pounds per 1000 square feet. Tall fescue makes a good, durable, dark green lawn that has deeper roots and stands up to drought and heat. It requires less water (once established) and less fertilizer than a bluegrass-ryegrass lawn, so it is considered economical and eco-friendly.
My zucchini are producing fruit that get to be no longer than three inches before they wither and drop off. What can I do to correct this? It sounds like your zucchini are not being adequately pollinated. If the fruit did not receive enough pollen to fertilize all the seeds normally found in a zucchini, the plant will abort the fruit and it will wither and die. Avoid using insecticides around the zucchini to avoid killing bees. You may need to hand pollinate the zucchini by using a soft brush to collect pollen from the male flowers and deposit it inside the female flowers. You might want to consider using the plant hormone cytokinin, often sold as a blossom set spray. This can force flowers to set fruit without adequate pollination.
I am trying to remove phragmites from our property, primarily through herbicide application. The plants typically die off by fall and do not come back. Can you recommend any native plants that are fairly vigorous or could quickly grow back in these areas to help choke them out? Chardon, Ohio Phragmites are an invasive grass that has caused considerable trouble in our local wetlands by crowding out native plants. The dried stems remain all winter, and in April 2003, Mentor Marsh suffered a 400 acre fire supported by the phragmites stems.
There are few plants that can outcompete phragmites. The Ohio Department of Natural Resources has a list of native wetland plants at this address. Many of these plants will not be available commercially. Here is a list of plants commonly sold in nurseries that will grow in a wetland environment: Achillea ptarmica, Aconitum napellus, Actaea, Alchemilla mollis, Alnus, Angelica archangelica, Arisaemea triphyllum, Arisarum proboscideum, Arum italicum, Aruncus dioicus, Asclepias, Aster, Astilbe, Astilbiodes tabularis, Astrantia, Betula, Caltha palustris, Chelone, Cimicifuga, Clethra, Cornus alba, Cornus canadensis, Cornus mas, Cornus sanguinea, Cornus stolonifera, Crocosmia, Cypripedium, Epimedium, Epipactis, Eranthis hymenalis, Erica, Erythronium, Eupatorium, Filipendula, Fothergilla, Gaultheria, Gentiana, Helleborus, Hemerocallis, Hepatica, Hibiscus, Hosta, Hypericum, Iris, Itea, Juncus, Lobelia, Lysimachia, Lythrum, Mentha, Metasequoia, Myosotis, Nasturtium, Phyllostachis, Physostegia, Polystychum, Populus, Primula, Rodgersia, Salix, Tradescantia, Tricyrtis, Trillium, Trollius, Vaccinium, Veronica, Viola.
I have 36 Nova Zembla rhododendrons. About thirty are facing due south with very little shade. This is the third year since planting, and their growth is slower and the leaves are less green than the ones planted facing west with 60% shade. They are planted on a brume of loam and mulched with cedar mulch. They have been watered every two or three days since planting, depending on weather, although this year they have been watered less often. They are fertilized twice a year with a slow release fertilizer for acid loving plants. How do I get the south facing rhododendrons to green up and grow faster? Bristol, Connecticut Rhododendrons grow best in part shade, especially if they receive shade in the heat of the day. Your south facing rhododendrons are being stressed by the heat and light they receive throughout the summer. Unfortunately, the only long term solutions you have are to provide shade for the rhododendrons by planting trees near them, or move them to a shadier location. Since they have survived so far, they will probably be able to survive in this location, but they will never exhibit the perfect health of the shaded rhododendrons.
I have a climbing hydrangea growing on a trellis that has beautiful green leaves, but in the eight years since planting, it has never bloomed. It receives part sun, facing west, and recently it is more shaded due to maturing trees. Last summer, the leaves were destroyed by Japanese beetles. What more can I do to help this climber along? Lititz, Pennsylvania Climbing hydrangea are notoriously slow to bloom, but after eight years, yours should be about ready. Withhold fertilizer so the plant is not encouraged to produce more leaves and stems than necessary. Do not trim off any short branches that extend out from the trellis as these are the stems that will produce blooms. If possible, prune back the trees to allow a little more light to reach the vine.
I have several large pine trees with long droopy bows. Lots of needles drop and I need to pick them up and discard them very often. What is best to put down on the soil to neutralize it so that plants can grow reasonably? Mannheim, Germany Pine needles can sometimes make a soil too acidic for normal plant growth. Have the pH of the soil tested, and if it is not in the optimal range for the type of plant you want to grow, add lime to raise the pH. Some plants do very well and actually require acidic soil, so planting these types of plants is the best approach. Often the problem with growing plants under pines is not the pH, but the competition with the trees for sunlight and especially moisture. Supplemental watering will be necessary for any new plants under these trees, and a two inch layer of mulch (such a pine needles) will help conserve moisture.
I have a young ash tree that has become infested with some kind of bug. The leaves on the new growth curl around fifteen to twenty tiny white bugs, and then the leaves turn brown and die. I've tried spraying them, but the "cocoon" seems to protect them from insecticide. What kind of bug is this and what can I do to get rid of them? Also, some of the leaves have a lacy appearance because something else is eating them. The insects are probably wooly ash aphids. They feed on leaves by sucking out the juices, and this causes the leaves to curl. The distorted leaves provide a perfect refuge for the aphids from predators and insecticides. Use a systemic insecticide containing imidacloprid, which will be absorbed by the tree and get to the aphids as they feed. The chewed leaves with holes were likely caused by a beetle or caterpillar. These insects are more difficult to kill on a tree, and since they will not affect the health of the tree, treatment is not recommended.
I am not sure what is going on with my new grass. The existing grass around the newly seeded spots has been cut twice since the time the new grass came in, but the new grass seems to have stopped growing at one or two inches tall. I used a starter fertilizer about a month ago, and I’ve been watering lightly. We have had several days of good rain, but the new grass is just not growing very rapidly at all. What can I do to encourage growth? Des Plaines, Illinois The new grass is likely putting most of its growing efforts into establishing a root system, so this growth is not visible. New grass will also put energy into developing a crown that produces several blades of grass. You can use another application of starter fertilizer now, and this will help the new grass along. In a few weeks the new grass should be filled in well, and a few weeks after that the new spots should blend in perfectly with your existing grass.
My mother recently moved from California to the Youngstown, Ohio area. She always had a couple of Japanese maples in her yard, and although her huge new yard is beautiful, she misses those maples. Are there good Acer palmatum or other species suitable for eastern Ohio's climate? Many varieties of Japanese maple are perfectly hardy in Ohio. Bloodgood is an excellent upright tree, while Red Dragon and Inaba Shidare are nice weeping forms. For green leaved varieties, try Viridis or Butterfly.
I live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5 and am looking for a bush that will make a tall hedge and stay green all year. The area gets a lot of sun but some shade too. I have some Winter Gem boxwoods in my yard and I love them, but they just don't get big enough. Is there anything that is like the Winter Gem but get six or seven feet tall? Connecticut
The best plant for the situation you describe is arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis). The variety Emerald Green has a nice rich green color, while Nigra has a darker green appearance. They grow to be about eight feet tall and four feet wide, so plant them four feet apart to form a hedge.
I have a mature weeping cherry tree that just finished flowering beautifully (pinkish-white). It is about 6 inches in diameter at the base. However, as the flowers disappeared, I noticed that some branches were infested with caterpillar worms. I hosed them down and then burned the cotton-like houses in which they were living. I noticed that this year, I have absolutely no leaves on my tree and this does not seem normal. What should I do?
The caterpillars on your tree were a type of webworm or tent caterpillar. They only eat the leaves of the tree and can not kill the tree unless it was repeatedly stripped of leaves year after year.
It will take some time for the tree to waken dormant buds and produce new leaves. This should happen in the next few weeks. A mature tree with no other problems will be able to easily recover from this type of problem.
What reasons are there for NOT using "wonder" lawn seed mixes I see advertised so often?
These grass mixtures are generally cheap mixes of seed that are not as good as those sold by reputable companies for similar or even lower prices. These grasses often contain high quantities of annual ryegrass, a fast growing grass that only lives for one season before dying out. In the meantime it produces very stiff stalks that are unpleasant to walk on and look worse with age. Other mixes contain grasses that have undesirable characteristics that the ads are very careful to talk around. For example, zoysia grass is brown and dormant seven or eight months of the year in Ohio's climate, and spreads aggressively into flower beds and neighbors' lawns when it is growing. If the ad does not explicitly state the types of grass and the proportions of each type, do not buy it.
Many of these companies rely on testimonials from the first few weeks when nearly any grass will look good. Claims that a special grass mixture will grow on concrete are true, but only because any grass will grow on concrete as long as it is never allowed to dry out for even an hour. The same goes for claims that the grass will grow anywhere in the country; they just don't tell you how long it will actually grow, and how well it will perform over time. If you want a lawn that will look good year-round, there are no shortcuts. You must use a grass that is suited to your particular climate, prepare the soil so the grass can establish as strong, deep root system, and perform regular and appropriate maintenance.
Here is what is going on in a lawn I inherited from my grandma:
Can you please list what specific steps I need to take to repair my lawn?
You have some work to do, but it is not hopeless.
The first thing you need to do is rake up any leaves and mulch that are still on the lawn. Second, rake out the moss, or if there is too much moss to rake, use a moss killer to dry up the moss. Once the moss is gone or dried up, you may continue with these steps. Third, even out the lawn by adding a good quality topsoil to the low spots. You may also want to spread a thin layer of topsoil over killed grass if the soil is not visible through the dead grass. Fourth, apply starter fertilizer to the whole lawn. This will revitalize existing grass as well as help the grass seed. Fifth, spread grass seed over the topsoil and bare areas. Sixth, either lightly rake the seed into the soil so it is no more than one-eighth of an inch into the soil, or spread a light layer of peat moss (no more than one-eighth of an inch) over the top of the seed. Seventh, water the lawn thoroughly so that the top several inches of soil are moist. Keep the lawn moist ALL THE TIME until the grass is well up. This means that the soil should always be dark-colored from being damp. If the soil starts to turn light from drying out, water it immediately to avoid drying out and killing new grass seedlings. Eighth, mow as needed by the height of the grass, regardless of how new the seedlings are. Ninth, use a lawn weed killer to remove any weeds that come up once the new grass has grown enough to have been mowed at least four times. Last, use a grub preventer containing imidacloprid in late June or early July to prevent grub damage. Any grubs you have now are not feeding enough to do damage or ingest grub killer.
By July 4th you should have a nice looking lawn again.
I moved my sweet broom to a partially shady southern spot a couple of years ago. Now it seems to love that spot and has absolutely taken over the area in which it's planted. I have not seen any definitive advice on pruning it. Can it it be pruned into more of a tree form? Do I need to wait until it is not blooming?
Sacramento, California
The
normal method for pruning sweet broom (Cytisus x spachianus) is to wait
until it is finished blooming, and then trim back all the branches by about one
third. At the same time, some of the oldest woody stems should be cut all the
way back to the ground as they will not flower as well as new, young branches. My husband accidentally grabbed the crabgrass preventer instead of fertilizer and spread it on the garden, will it be safe to use the vegetables if they grow?
The crabgrass preventer is similar other products that are used to keep weeds out of vegetable farm crops. Food you grow there will be safe to eat.
The crabgrass preventer will stop all seeds from sprouting. If you plant to plant vegetable seeds in your garden, you will have to till the soil to release the seed-killing chemical barrier. If you are putting in vegetable plants that are already started, the crabgrass preventer will help keep weeds out of the vegetable garden.
Please note that although the crabgrass preventer should not pose a danger to you, that product is not labeled for this use and should not intentionally be applied to areas other than the lawn.
I recently built a new home and I am starting the lawn from scratch. I am bringing in topsoil since the builder took the old topsoil away. What kind of grass seed do you recommend? I have mostly sun, but some shade. I don't like to water too much as the expense is very high. Also, what can you tell me about "no-mow" grass. Is it worth it? Akron, Ohio
I recommend a lawn of Turf Type Tall Fescue. It is very heat and drought resistant, and actually performs better with less fertilizer and water. This grass will look very good in the hot, dry summer when other lawns start to brown. It will be browner than other lawns in the winter, but to me that is an acceptable trade off since the lawn will be snow covered for much of the winter.
Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer in April and again in September or October. Water only during extreme drought, once the lawn is established.
You will need to water daily while the seed is establishing. Sow the seed at a heavy rate, about nine ponds per thousand square feet. This will not only give you good, dense coverage, but it will ensure that the grass blades are medium thickness like a bluegrass / ryegrass lawn.
There are several types of "no mow" grasses out there, most of which should be called "low mow" as they require some mowing. Some consist only of fine fescues which will produce a spare lawn that does not tolerate a lot of foot traffic. Some are zoysia grass, which will be completely brown from the first frost in October to beyond the last frost in May - most of the year.
All will require that you let the grass grow to six to eight inches, which is much higher than the typical homeowner would like, and may even violate local property maintenance ordinances. Mowing regularly also discourages many weeds, which will need to be sprayed or pulled on a no mow lawn.
If you would like to try a no mow or low mow lawn, I would suggest starting with an out of the way area that will not affect the appearance of your home if you do not like it. See how it performs through at least one complete year before you decide to replace other areas of your lawn. You will also need some time to see how it responds to your care, since these types of lawns are entirely different from regular lawns we all grew up with. The tall fescue lawn I suggest is a good compromise in the meantime - it offers the appearance of a traditional lawn with less fertilizer and watering.
Part 2:
I don't think the "no mow/low mow" is right for me. I want a nice looking yard, and this type of seed sounds like it will have a "shaggy" look. I did a quick search and come up with different varieties of Turf Type Tall Fescue - is there one you recommend over another? I have had three landscapers out and all have told me they use "Fairlawn Blend". Is this a Turf Type Tall Fescue? Where would I purchase the Turf Type Tall Fescue?
You also mentioned that I only need to fertilize 2 times a year. I used to use a four step program plus a winterizing fertilizer. Is this no longer necessary?
Any of the modern tall fescue varieties should be OK. I would use a blend of at least three different varieties for genetic diversity and greater pest resistance.
The Fairlawn Mix that I am familiar with is a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and fine fescue. It is a typical sun and shade mixture and is the traditional type of lawn that has been used in Ohio for decades.
Tall fescue does not require the same high maintenance as bluegrass / ryegrass / fescue lawns, which need regular feeding throughout the year. Tall fescue actually looks better when it is fertilized minimally and watered little. When I first changed my front lawn to tall fescue several years ago I made the mistake of maintaining the five feedings and watering regularly. The lawn looked thin and off green. When I changed to use only the first step (crabgrass preventer plus fertilizer) and a last step (either regular fertilizer or a "winterizer") and stopped watering, the lawn did much better. I also overseed in the fall to keep the lawn thick.
One last thing about tall fescue: if you are not currently mowing your lawn high, you definitely need to with tall fescue. Cut short for the first mowing of the year to remove brown dead blades, then mow at a height of three inches. This will allow the tall fescue to send its roots deep enough to find enough water on its own.
We have an indoor ti plant that has grown out of control. The two longest and least attractive stems appear to be the main trunk of the plant, which is the size of a woman's fist at the soil line. How do we prune off these two tall and scraggly stems without killing the rest of the plant? Must it be done with the plant removed from the pot? Also, it grows in twisted stems as it seeks the southern light.
There
are a few approaches you might take. Without seeing a photo of the ti plant (Cordyline
terminalis), I can not give you more specific information. The first is to
prune back the longest stems to about a half inch above where they branch out
(if they do branch out). The second method is to cut back the plant severely to
the trunk and allow it to regrow from the trunk. The third approach is to take
cuttings from the plant and start a new ti plant from scratch.
I just put down grass seed. How long do I have to water it every day to be effective? Also, I would like to know how long should I wait after using a four step fertilizer until my pets and I can go on the lawn?
Water the grass seed often enough so that the soil is always dark from being moist. If the top starts to dry out and lighten up, there is a danger that the grass seedlings will dry out and die, requiring another seeding. Do this for at least 3 weeks, until the grass is well up, having been mowed at least 3 times.
After applying the first step, water it in thoroughly and stay off the lawn until it has dried.
How do I stop animals from
digging up our lawn? There is an animal that comes out at night and
digs up our lawn. I have seen this animal around 4 o'clock in the
morning, but not sure exactly what kind of animal it is. There are
holes all over our lawn in patches and it looks like a battlefield.
I am planning to start a four step fertilizer program this week, but I do
not want to waste money if the animal continues to dig up my lawn. I
thought it may be after grubs and I was going to put down grub killer, but
I read that grub killer should not be applied until end of May through
July. What is it I can do? Skunks and raccoons are the two most likely creatures to dig in your lawn. Since you are not sure what it is after seeing it, I bet it is a raccoon, since skunks are pretty distinctive. They feed on earthworms and grubs. You are correct that a grub killer at this time of year will have little or no effect on grubs as they are not eating enough to take in a lethal dose of grub killer. The grub killer will not affect the earthworms either.
I suggest you spread Milorganite on the lawn. It is an eco-friendly fertilizer that has an odor that repels skunks and raccoons. It is a very mild fertilizer so you can still use the four-step lawn program without over-fertilizing. I would try this first. If the Milorganite doesn't work, a second option is to use a motion sensitive sprinkler to scare away the marauding critters. One brand is called The Scarecrow. The disadvantage of this is that you have to leave the hose attached to it all night with the water pressure on, and then remember to turn it off in the morning before anyone walks in front of it and gets sprayed. The plus side is that the sprinkler works every time I have used it.
I have grubs! I applied some grub killer last year, maybe around October. I want to apply more grub killer, and I need to plant grass seed. Can I do both of these together? I also bought a four-step fertilizer program. Is it ok to use the grub killer and grass seed together now, and start the four-step program in the middle of April? I want grass! It is not necessary to use grub killer now. Grubs are the larvae of beetles, such as Japanese beetles, masked chafers, European chafers, May beetles and June beetles. These beetles lay eggs in the lawn in early summer, and the grubs feed on the grass roots through the summer and fall. By October, the grubs had already done most if not all of the damage they are going to do before turning into adult beetles and flying away. Since the grubs stop most of their feeding by October, a grub killer would not be effective since the grubs will not consume enough of it to kill them. Forget about the grubs that you have now, and focus on preventing the next generation that will feed on your lawn this summer. Use a grub killer containing imidacloprid between the end of May and the beginning of July. This will get the newly hatched grubs while they are tiny and easy to control, and before they damage the lawn. Plant your grass seed now, making sure the seed makes good contact with the soil, and keep the seed and soil moist all the time until the grass is well up. DO NOT use the first step of the four-step fertilizer program where you want to plant grass seed! The crabgrass preventer in the first step will kill the grass seed. You can not plant grass seed until four months after using a crabgrass preventer, or use a crabgrass preventer where the seed was planted up to two months before. Your options are to use a starter fertilizer on the lawn and skip the first step, or CAREFULLY avoid the areas to be planted when you use the first step on the rest of the lawn. There are also some products that contain siduron to prevent crabgrass and also allow planting grass seed. I am planning on removing my current lawn this spring, and preparing and seeding a new lawn. How early this spring can I safely reseed? I have been finding conflicting information regarding the optimum date for spring grass seeding; the answers range from early spring (March, April) to after the last frost (late May). I was hoping to seed as early as possible without taking unnecessary risk. Thanks for your help! Lyndhurst, Ohio You can start planting grass seed now. The cool season grasses we use in Ohio can deal with frosts. Grass seedlings do not deal well with hot, dry conditions. April through mid-May are the best times for planting grass seed in spring in northern Ohio. Make sure you use a starter fertilizer instead of a fertilizer containing crabgrass preventer. The crabgrass preventer in nearly all products will also kill grass seed, and you will not be able to successfully replant until fall. I recently got two new dogs who have grown to be 60 to 70 lbs and they are taking a toll on my landscaping. They have destroyed rhododendrons, azaleas, barberries, and my other leafy plants. They seem to stay away from spruce since it is more prickly, but I do not want a yard full of spruce. Are there any shrubs that are more pliable or will stand up to these monsters more than others? One corner of my backyard gets little sunlight so my options are limited. Can you help me find plants that are pet friendly in two ways (in case they eat it, and in case they wrestle and fall into it). Two years ago I put in nice beds in my small back yard surrounded by stone so I don't just want to throw Taxus in there. Please help! Lakewood, Ohio Keeping large dogs out of planting beds takes three approaches. First, observe carefully where your dogs like to run and play, and do not plant anything in those locations. Many dogs like to run along fences to patrol their boundaries, but these are also prime locations for flower and shrub borders. Dogs will often have a set pattern of places to check out on each visit to the yard. Make sure there are no plants that become barriers across their paths, or these plants will be the first to be destroyed. Build the garden around the dogs' habits. Second, put in larger plants and create thick, dense plantings. If it looks like there is no way to get through, the dogs will be less likely to try to get in there. Make sure they have other places to find shade. Add some places where they can lie down and feel hidden, but still have a good view of the yard and the neighborhood goings-on. Third, your dogs will need to be trained to stay out of the planting beds. Start with temporary fencing, like three foot high chicken wire, around your beds. This is an especially good idea around newly planted beds. Once they get the idea that these are not places to play, and new plants have become well established, you can remove the fencing. In some cases, you may want to use low decorative fencing to reinforce the idea that these are not play zones. Constructing raised beds also helps in this regard. The plants you purchase will almost never be dog-proof when first planted. The loose soil around the planting hole will stimulate many dogs to dig. You must rely on fencing, training and good planning to keep new plants safe. The safety of your dogs must also be considered. Although the prickly spruce seems to be repelling the dogs, the thorny barberries apparently did not. Avoid thorny or spiny plants that could injure your dogs. The issue of toxic plants is a difficult one. Each species has a different list of plants that are toxic to them, so the list for people is different from the list for dogs, which is different from the one for cats, etc. Some plants, such as Taxus (yew), are very poisonous, but people and pets never try to eat them, so they pose no problem. The same goes for a number of vegetables, including the leaves of tomatoes and even lettuce (when consumed in large quantities). There are a number of online resources for poisonous plants, and I recommend you print them and take them with you as you shop for plants. Start with the ASPCA's list. With that said, here are some plants that may stand up to an occasional encounter with large dogs. For sun: service berry (Amelanchier), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), burning bush (Euonymus alata), forsythia, rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), juniper, privet (Ligustrum), Nanking cherry (Prunus tomentosa), elderberry (Sambucus), lilac (Syringa), arborvitae (Thuja). For part shade: boxwood (Buxus), witch hazel (Hamamelis), holly (Ilex), Kerria, Oregon grape holly (Mahonia), viburnum. Consider using "dog-gone plant" (Coleus canina) as part of your training efforts. It is not very showy, but it is said to have a smell that dogs do not like, so it may help you keep them out of your beds. I would like some advice on lawn care. We are looking to reseed our backyard and it is very shady, and also has areas that are mossy. We also have three large dogs, so we need a grass that will withstand the traffic and shade. Also, is it best to seed over the existing grass, or bring in topsoil prior to reseeding? Thanks for your help. Northeast Ohio You certainly have a challenge. All types of turf grass prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Grasses in seed mixes labeled for shade will only tolerate shade better than other types of grass. It is also very difficult to keep a nice lawn with dogs. Dogs like to walk the same paths which can produce trails of thin grass or bare spots, and their urine may create brown patches. A lawn that has both of these factors will need some extra maintenance, and I have a few suggestions to reduce wear from the dogs. If your dogs produce a lot of wear in particular areas of the lawn, consider alternatives to grass for those locations. If they run along certain paths all the time, such as along a fence, you could put in a pathway covered with bark mulch, decorative gravel or pavers. This way the dogs will stay clean and will not damage grass as they patrol their yard. If they have a particular bathroom area that they use more often, creating a mulch bed there will prevent grass damage and may also reinforce the notion that this is their bathroom area and the rest of the yard may stay cleaner. Among turf grass species, tall fescue is the most traffic tolerant but will take only light shade, fine fescue is the most shade tolerant but does not handle traffic well, and bluegrass recovers from damage the quickest but is only moderate in dealing with shade and traffic. I would recommend a mixture of all three species. You will probably have to buy them separately and mix them together yourself. I would use around 70% tall fescue, 15% fine fescue and 15% shade-tolerant bluegrass by weight. Prepare the area to be reseeded by raking off the moss and brown grass so that you can see the soil through the remaining grass. If there is too much moss to rake out, use a granular or liquid moss killer to dry up the moss before raking. Unless you have low areas to fill in, I would not bring in topsoil. There are always weed seeds in topsoil, and the dogs would make a mess getting into the loose soil. Covering tree roots with soil is also potentially harmful to the trees. I recommend against tilling the soil for similar reasons. After spreading the seed, rake the grass again to make sure the seed has fallen all the way through to the soil. Apply a starter fertilizer and keep the areas well watered if spring rains are not sufficient. The new seed should sprout in two weeks or so, depending on temperatures. It is fine to sow grass seed now through mid-May. Do NOT use a fertilizer with crabgrass preventer because the preventer will also kill the grass seed. Mow the grass as needed and do not use any weed killers until the new grass has grown enough to be mown at least four times. Lawns under trees may need to be reseeded each year, especially with dogs. Fertilize in spring and fall, but avoid summer fertilizers. During times of drought, water deeply but infrequently, and increase the amount of water because the trees will take much of it. The lawn will start to thin out during the summer as the grass competes with the trees for sun and moisture. It helps to have the trees limbed up (remove the lowest branches) to allow more sun to filter through. If some spots are super shady, consider replacing the turf grass with shade loving perennials, shrubs or groundcover plants. I thought I needed to cut down my coral bells before winter as I would for other perennials. Will they come back this spring? Your coral bells should be fine, and leaves should come up again in mid- to late spring. Coral bells are considered "evergreen" and will keep their leaves over winter. They make new leaves each year, so these new leaves should come out when the plant begins to grow. Although your coral bells should come back just fine, it is best to let the leaves remain over the winter. The old leaves keep the crown of the plant protected, and the plant does not have to use as much stored energy if it doesn't have to produce all new leaves every spring. Since the cost of watering has increased so drastically, I want my mostly bluegrass lawn to be more drought tolerant. I would like to top seed the lawn with a grass that is more tolerant to heat and drought. Can you give me some choices to pick from? Euclid, Ohio You are not alone in wanting to reduce the amount of water used on your lawn. The best turf grasses for reducing water use in our part of the country are the fescues. They have a deeper root system than bluegrasses and ryegrasses and can therefore deal with dry conditions, once established. For a shady lawn, fine fescues, including creeping red fescue, hard fescue and chewings fescue are appropriate. These are very fine bladed grasses and will better tolerate the dry conditions found in shade. Fine fescues can be top seeded over bluegrass and ryegrass. For sunny areas, your best choice is tall fescue. Unfortunately, tall fescue will not look right if it is seeded over top of an existing bluegrass / ryegrass lawn. When the existing lawn begins to grow again this spring, spray it with Roundup to kill all the existing grass. Be careful to keep the Roundup and any drifting spray away from trees, shrubs and flowers as Roundup will kill or damage anything if it gets on the leaves. (Rinse immediately with water if this happens). Once the existing lawn is brown, rake off enough of the dead grass so you can see the soil through it. Apply tall fescue seed at a rate of 8 pounds per 1000 square feet. Keep the seed well watered until it has grown enough to be mowed 4 times. Hopefully spring rains will take care of most of this, but be careful not to let the seedlings dry out - they will die and you will have to start over. Tall fescue lawns look better in the summer than bluegrass lawns with less fertilizer and water. In fact, if you fertilize and water "normally" the lawn will suffer. Fertilize once in spring and once in fall, and once the grass is well established, water only during periods of prolonged drought. When you do water, water deeply but infrequently - in other words, give the lawn enough water to soak down several inches into the soil, and then let the roots chase down after the water as it gets lower in the soil. Frequent light watering will encourage shallow roots that dry out quickly. Does feeding birds now in the winter assure you of visits all year long if you continue to feed them? Fairview Park, Ohio The short answer is yes, feeding birds regularly at any time of year will encourage them to keep visiting for free meals. Some birds migrate, and studies have shown that feeding birds does not keep them from migrating, so seasonal birds will come and go throughout the year. If predators such as hawks, owls, or cats have been stalking your feeding station, birds will come less often or not at all until the predator moves on. Birds raising young will need extra protein in their diet, so they may be spending more time hunting insects and less time at the feeder. If you want to have regular visits from birds, the best thing you can do is keep your feeders clean and filled. I need a groundcover for a woodland area, but I don't want anything that will be too invasive and take over my yard. I live in zone 7. Any suggestions?
It can be hard to find a plant that will spread enough to cover the soil and keep weeds down, while at the same time staying within the area you would like it to grow. The plants in the following list fall toward the middle of the spectrum, with well-behaved plants that will take some time to completely fill in, and others that will fill in quickly but may occasionally need to be kept within bounds. These plants should do well in light to moderate shade.
My favorites include Canadian wild ginger, ferns, hellebores, coral bells, climbing hydrangea and Labrador violet.
When is the best time to apply grub killer and then reseed the lawn? Englewood, Ohio
The best time for reseeding is in early fall: mid-August through the end of September. After October 1 the grass seed will definitely sprout, but the grass seedlings may not mature enough to survive the winter. The next best time to seed the lawn is April and May. You could also apply grass seed to the lawn now, since the freezing and thawing cycle will help the grass seed wedge into the soil. The grass will begin to sprout in April. After sowing grass seed, be sure to use a starter fertilizer in spring in place of a crabgrass-preventing fertilizer. The ingredient that prevents crabgrass will kill the grass seedlings.
The best strategy to treat grubs is to use a season-long preventative treatment that contains imidacloprid between May and July. This will kill grubs as they hatch from the eggs all summer, and they will not be able to damage the lawn. If you wait until after August 15, the grubs will be too large to control with imidacloprid. You will have to use a 24-hour grub killer containing Dylox, which is more expensive and a much stronger chemical. This will work until the grubs stop feeding in mid-October. If you miss the fall treatment period, you could try the 24-hour killer in the spring between March and April, but by then the grubs have already done all their damage. In addition, very few will be killed at this time due to their large size. One treatment with the preventative season-long imidacloprid between May and July will get grubs before they cause damage and uses a less toxic method.
When is the best time to burn a fine fescue lawn? There is a lot of dead grass and my yard is very thick. Kansas Burning a lawn to remove excess dried grass stems and leaves can be dangerous and illegal (check your local ordinances). Some field managers will burn a fescue pasture, or a field of fescue raised to produce commercial-grade lawn seed. In these cases, the fields are not mown and there are literally tons of hay and straw on the surface. Burning the field eliminates the need to dispose of the straw, while on a home lawn the few inches of brown leaves are easily handled. Burning also reduces field-type weeds and diseases. Weeds and diseases in home lawns are not as susceptible to burning as there simply isn't enough straw to provide the necessary heat.
The best way to prepare your lawn for spring is to mow it very low, to about an inch and a half, and bag the clippings. This will remove all the debris that may choke out the grass plants as they begin to grow in the spring. This will also expose the sensitive crowns to the elements, so wait until there is little chance of heavy, prolonged freezes. The end of March or beginning of April should be fine.
For optimal lawn health, fertilize the lawn in late fall with a slow-release fertilizer as the growth stops. These nutrients will help establish a strong and deep root system with plenty of nutrients stored for the spring. Make your last cut to a height of two inches and keep leaves raked off the lawn. Excessive debris on the lawn surface may cause the crowns to rot during the winter. Fertilize again with a slow-release fertilizer in spring after growth resumes and the lawn requires regular mowing.
I am in an area which was hit by a severe frost a few weeks ago. Several dracaenas which had been transplanted in October are looking pretty sad. The fronds are either brown or gone. Should they be cut back and to what point do you cut them? Can these come back or should they be discarded? They still feel firmly rooted in the ground. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Tampa, Florida Dracaenas can can deal with light frosts. The leaves will be the first to be damaged, and they will turn brown and fall off. If the cold continues for many hours, or the temperature falls too far below freezing, the stem will become damaged. Areas of the stem that froze will become soft and mushy once it has had time to thaw. After a while these sections will shrivel.
The National Weather Service weather records for Tampa show a low of 29 degrees on January 3. This is certainly low enough to take out the leaves. If the stems are still firm and healthy, just trim off all the damaged leaves close to the main stems. If there are soft spots on any of the stems, cut them down to a few inches below the soft parts. Don’t trim the stem if it seems okay, since it will take longer for a cut stem to sprout than an intact stem.
The stems should soon re-sprout new leaves, and the dracaenas will be as good as new. Plants that had their stems cut should take longer to grow back. They should begin to recover, or at least show signs of growth, by mid-March.
What is the best time of year to start lettuce seeds indoors, and what is the best time to plant them outside? Last year we planted lettuce in May, and we were told it was too late. The lettuce came up, but it seemed bitter. Sandusky, Ohio Based on an average last frost date of May 20, you should start lettuce seeds indoors around the first of April, and transplant them outside about three weeks later. Be sure to let the seedlings get gradually accustomed to the strong outdoor sunlight and cooler temperatures. Start by putting them in a shady spot during the day, and bring them indoors overnight. Over the course of a week or so, increase the amount of sunlight and the duration of cold that the plants receive. Lettuce is a cool-season crop and can withstand light frosts. In hot weather, lettuce "bolts," or begins to prepare for flowering. This changes the internal chemistry of the plants and makes them taste bitter. Plant lettuce out early to get a good harvest before the heat of summer, and choose varieties labeled as "bolt-resistant". I plant rows of lettuce between warm-season crops like peppers and tomatoes. As the weather turns warm, the taller plants shade the lettuce and give an extra week or so before they turn bitter. For more information on when to start seeds or plant outdoors, download my Spring Seed Starting Calendar on the factsheet page. I have been told that squishing cockroaches will make them release their eggs and make more roaches. This sounds implausible to me, what do you think? Strongsville, Ohio It is implausible that cockroach eggs would survive the average stomp with a shoe. The female cockroach creates an egg case of between 6 and 40 eggs, and carries it around on her body for a few days before depositing them. Some people believe that stepping on a cockroach may spread these eggs around and create more cockroaches. A cockroach egg case averages about the size of a pea. Nothing this size of is likely to withstand a foot step. The eggs are pretty fragile, and even if an egg was to lodge in a crevice of a sneaker's tread, it is unlikely to survive until hatching. Stomping on cockroaches is an environmentally friendly way to control the pest population. ©2008 Roger S. Bolger. |
Get notification of site updates:
See other top 100 gardening sites by clicking below:
Landscaping O'Brien Landscaping Jerry O'Brien, ONLA Certified (440) 773-9065
Design & Installation, Lawn Repair, Maintenance, Patios & Hardscaping, Water Features, Spring / Fall Cleanup
33777 Chester Rd Avon, Ohio 44011 (440) 937-0690
Real Estate 7854 Maddock Road North Ridgeville, OH 44039 (440) 925-6769
Northeast Ohio Real Estate in the communities of Westlake, North Ridgeville, Avon, North Olmsted, Elyria, Olmsted Falls, Fairview Park, and Columbia Station.
Ohio's Online Gardening Resource
OhioLine Yard and Garden Factsheets
Cuyahoga County Extension Office
|
.JPG)
