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2008 Answers - 2007 Answers - 2006 Answers
Answers to Questions from 2006:
My chrysanthemums will not bloom. They were planted from a pot delivered by a florist. Is there something special to do to them to make them bloom? They have good-looking foliage which grows out of bounds, and I have to trim it down periodically. Palm Harbor, Florida Chrysanthemums usually bloom in the late summer. If they are regularly pinched back to produce compact growth, they bloom in the autumn. In Ohio, stop pinching back the growing tips by July 4 to get fall flowers. In Florida, you could continue pinching the plants until late August to delay blooming until late November and December. It could be that your chrysanthemum is not blooming because it is being trimmed too often, and the plant is not getting a chance to develop flower buds. Try letting it go for three months without a trim, especially when the weather begins to turn cooler. Since the chrysanthemum came from a florist, they may have been forced to bloom out of season and have not yet adjusted back to its natural cycle. If they were delivered in bloom after May or June, this may be the problem.
My sweet alyssum plants seem to be going to seed. Can I save the seeds to plant next year, or is it better to just buy new seeds? Thanks for your help.
Palm Harbor, Florida Sweet alyssum is one of the plants that will come true from seed - that is, the seedlings will have the same traits as the parent plants. Let the seeds dry on the plants and then collect them. They can be planted right away or stored in an envelope until you are ready to plant them.
I purchased a Christmas tree this weekend and set it up in the tree stand. It drank about an inch of water the first day, but hasn't drank much water since. What is wrong? Do I need to cut the trunk again? Westlake, Ohio If the tree initially drank water and then stopped, and the bottom of the trunk has been in water all the time, the tree is fully hydrated. It will still absorb water, but only slowly. This is a sign of a fresh tree. A tree that drinks copious amounts of water at first has dried considerably on the tree lot. As long as the needles are pliable, and not too many are falling off, the tree is doing well. If the tree never took in any water when first put in the stand, or if the trunk was out of the water for several hours and then did not drink anymore, ta fresh cut on the trunk base is necessary.
November 25, 2006 I have a bamboo plant that has outgrown the original container. I would like to use a larger glass vase, put seashells in the bottom, then the peat, or whatever the bamboo is growing in now . Will the calcium from the seashells harm the bamboo roots above them? Thanks for your help. Palm Harbor, Florida
Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
November 19, 2006 Are the trees of northern Ohio really buckeyes? I have heard them called other than buckeye trees. Fairview Park, Ohio Buckeyes are certain species of the genus Aesculus. The Ohio Buckeye is Aesculus glabra. Trees and shrubs in the genus Aesculus can be found all around the northern hemisphere, from Japan (A. turbinata), China (A. chinensis), India (A. indica), southeast Europe (A. hippocastanum) and the United States (A.californica, A. sylvatica, A. parviflora), to name a few. Aesculus species from North America are commonly called Buckeyes, while those from Europe and Asia are called Horsechestnuts. The name Horsechestnut refers to the resemblance between the fruit of the edible chestnut (Castanea) and the Aesculus fruit. They were called "horse" chestnuts because the nuts are tougher and stronger than regular chestnuts, and also inedible. Buckeyes and horsechestnuts are inedible due to a toxin called aesculin that destroys red blood cells. It can be leached out by repeatedly boiling the nutmeats in several changes of water, resulting in a starchy paste used by some Native Americans. Deer and squirrels are immune to aesculin, so to them, the nuts are edible. Poachers used to crush buckeyes and throw them into lakes so the killed fish could be scooped out of the water. In Great Britain and several of their former colonies, Aesculus are called conker trees. This refers to the game of conker, played with horsechestnuts threaded on the end of strings approximately one foot long. One player lets their conker dangle while the other swings theirs in an attempt to hit and smash the opposing player's conker. November 13, 2006 My kalanchoe doesn't bloom. Does it need a special fertilizer? Or does it bloom in a certain season? Thank you for your advice. Palm Harbor, Florida Kalanchoe is an easy to grow succulent houseplant, with blooms that can be red, pink, orange or yellow. Kalanchoe is triggered to bloom by the changing period of daylight. To initiate flower buds, make sure that the plant gets 13 to 14 hours of darkness each night along with bright light during the day. Some people cover the plant with a box each night to make sure it gets enough darkness. Once flower buds have formed, it does not need to have a certain period of darkness to maintain the flowers. November 12, 2006 We have a 3-year-old Lebanon, Indiana To have a great lawn in the spring, the best time to fertilize it is in the fall, just after the last mow when the grass has stopped growing. The turf grass is storing nutrients in the roots, which will be ready as soon as the grass begins to grow in the spring. Slow-release nitrogen is made available to grass roots over a long period of time as water and soil organisms convert the nitrogen into a form that can be absorbed. If you applied the slow-release fertilizer at least six weeks ago, you can apply a fast-release fertilizer now. It is important to wait until the grass has stopped growing so the nitrogen will be stored in the roots instead of fueling a growth spurt. Otherwise you may end up mowing the lawn into December, and the excessive top growth may lead to problems with snow mold. White clover is a legume like beans and peas, and has the ability to "fix" atmospheric nitrogen in the soil without relying on fertilizer. It certainly does thrive in low fertility soils and its presence is an indicator of insufficient nitrogen. Additional nitrogen will help the lawn but won't automatically get rid of the clover. Use a broadleaf lawn weed killer in May to get rid of the clover; more than one application may be necessary. White clover used to be a part of every lawn seed mix because it provides nitrogen to the soil. It became a "weed" after lawn companies started selling herbicides that killed all non-grasses, including the beneficial clover. Some people still prefer not to have clover, especially people allergic to bee stings, as clover flowers are relished by honeybees. November 7, 2006 Is there anything I can spray on leaves to make them disintegrate faster? I would like to get the leaves to decay before they blow out of the beds and onto the lawn. Westlake, Ohio Yes and no. The best thing you can do to get leaves to break down quickly is to chop them. This creates breaks the waxy cuticle that protects the leaf from drying and decaying, and allows water and microorganisms to penetrate faster. If the leaves are in a large pile (at least 4 cubic feet), an application of nitrogen fertilizer such as cottonseed meal or even Miracid™ will provide a nutrient boost to get microorganisms working more quickly. A little bit of rich garden soil throughout the leaves will act as a microorganism inoculant. Small amounts of leaves spread thinly will not decompose well at all, and will have to be broken down by invertebrates such as earthworms, isopods, slugs, snails and detritus-eating insects. Cold weather slows or stops their activity, so an inch or two of leaves on the beds will likely persist into spring. A layer of leaf mulch over the winter does insulate the soil from thawing on sunny days and freezing each night, which can actually heave perennial plants out of the ground. It also keeps the soil temperatures cooler in the early spring, so a warm spell is less likely to cause plants to break dormancy too early and suffer damage in the next freeze. November 4, 2006 Is Epsom salts good to use on a papaya tree (newly planted) ? The leaves are turning yellow. Thank you for your help. Palm Harbor, Florida Papaya plants are heavy feeders and should be fertilized every two weeks with a complete fertilizer (like miracle-gro) that has nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, plus trace elements. Papayas also use a lot of magnesium, which is in Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate heptahydrate). Use a small amount (around a teaspoon) of Epsom salts at a time with plenty of water to make sure that the roots aren't burned from too much "salt" in the soil. A lack of nitrogen, iron or magnesium causes yellowing between the leaf veins, leaving a green web-like pattern along the veins. If this is the case, the complete fertilizer and the Epsom salts should turn them green again. Too much water causes leaves to turn yellow uniformly (not just between the veins), and typically starts with the lower and inner leaves and progresses out and up. If this seems to be the case, allow the soil to dry out until it is just barely moist, like a completely wrung out sponge, before applying more water. October 30, 2006 I have a big, old yucca that is getting too big. I would like to divide it. Do I just cut it in half? I don't see any side shoots or smaller yuccas growing around it. Westlake, Ohio Yuccas are very easy to propagate, as any piece of root will grow into a new plant. If you don't have any side shoots, just dig out the large yucca and plant it somewhere else, give it away, or trash it. There will definitely be pieces of root left in the soil, and next year you will have several small yuccas growing in that spot. Keep the best one and weed out the extras. October 30, 2006 I have a lot of crabgrass in my yard, and I want to get rid of it before next year. What should I use to kill it? Cleveland, Ohio Crabgrass is an annual weed, meaning that it only lives one year. Chances are, the crabgrass in your lawn is already dead due to the several killing frosts we've had, or will die soon. Only seeds will be left behind. In April, use a crabgrass preventer to kill the seeds as they sprout. You can use one of the chemical formulations, or corn gluten meal if you prefer an organic approach. Keep in mind that these products will not allow you to sow grass seed in the spring, as these applications will kill all seeds as they sprout. Scotts offers a chemical formula that is specific to crabgrass and allows new grass to be planted (Scotts Step 1 for Seeding™). October 26, 2006 Is it possible that I saw an ash borer early this past summer sitting on a leaf of a hazelnut? The only reason I wonder is that it was a luminous bright green bug (which is how it caught my attention). We are in Allen County, but when I first heard of it, they were saying the bug was in Michigan and "spreading" towards west-northern Ohio. The counties they named at risk didn't include Allen County. Lima, Ohio Although there have not yet been any confirmed sightings of emerald ash borer (EAB) in Allen County, there was a documented infestation in Duchouquet Township just over the border in Auglaize County. Miami and Warren counties have also had infestations, and these are all along I-75 south out of the heavily-infested Toledo area. This beetle seems to be spreading through the transport of ash products, especially firewood, along highways, so if you saw it near I-75, it could be EAB. Adult EABs fly from mid-May to late July, and they feed on ash leaves. It is possible that a beetle could be resting on another type of leaf. They are pretty small, only 1/2 inch long and 1/16th inch wide. If you saw a larger beetle, 1 to 1-1/2 inches long that was shiny metallic green, it was probably a green june beetle, or possibly a caterpillar hunter (aka fiery hunter). June beetles feed on leaves from a variety of plants, and caterpillar hunters attack caterpillars, which can also be found on a variety of plants. They are both active primarily at night, so it is uncommon to see them during the day. Here are photos of the insects in question:
EAB adult Green June Beetle Caterpillar Hunter / Fiery Hunter
Photos: Ohio Dept. of Agriculture, U. Ky.
October 23, 2006 I have a
question.....Why on God's green planet do I have crocuses and tulips planted
last year breaking the ground? They were planed correctly depth wise. And I say
again,.....last year? I forgot to mention that the crocuses...crocus...croci...,
BLOOMED! Thank you for
your time. Lakewood, Ohio It is
normal for foliage to begin to emerge in the late autumn. If we have a warm
spell in December they may grow several inches. They will be able to survive
under snow and ice, so don't worry about them. The only damage I have ever seen
is when the tips of the foliage protrude above the snow on sunny but very cold
days, causing the tips to dry and brown a bit. Some
years they grow more than others. I won't say they do it every year and you
haven't noticed, but I have seen some foliage come up every year at my house. There are fall
blooming crocuses and colchicums, which look like crocus. The most famous
fall-bloomer is Crocus sativus, the flower that produces saffron. (By the
way, crocus, crocuses, and croci - all are acceptable plurals) October 15, 2006 I have 5 Canadian hemlocks in a row, and only two of them (one in the middle, one on the left end) are turning yellow and dropping needles. Most of the needles changing color and dropping are toward the inside of the bush and also at the bottom. What is killing my hemlocks, and how can I stop it? Avon Lake, Ohio If the green foliage is healthy with no insect damage or signs of disease, it is probably part of the normal needle drop at this time of year. Evergreen needles only last a few years before the oldest turn color and fall off, just like leaves in the fall. The oldest needles would be the ones toward the middle of the tree and on the lowest branches. There are a number of reasons why two of the five are more noticeably dropping needles. It could be that these two trees were under more stress than the others. It could be that there was poorer drainage under these two trees, or that they were planted a little too deeply. We did have excessive rain in June this summer, and it could be that some of the roots on these two trees began to rot a bit. I would feed all five trees with a good quality fertilizer now and again in the spring. Keep an eye on the whole row of hemlocks in case there are further developments. October 13, 2006 The word on the street is you're the man to ask. We planted an evergreen tree last year that did not take off. When we dug it up this year it had one root. However, in the soil were this big fat, wrinkly, white worm looking things. They're not slugs. Kinda fat like a caterpillar, but white, without fur or legs but slimy & slippery. Maybe a grayish/blue tint but mostly white. Any idea what they are? Or how to kill them? I'm betting that's the reason our tree died because it ate the roots. Middleburg Heights, Ohio There are a couple of possibilities. If the larvae were completely legless and about 1/3 inch long, they were likely larvae of a root weevil. They are pests of many different kinds of evergreens.
If they had little legs just behind the head and were up to 1 inch long, they are likely grubs, or beetle larvae. There are numerous species, including Japanese beetle, masked chafer, May beetles or June beetles. They typically feed on roots of turf grasses, but are also known to eat roots of young trees and shrubs.
There are few ways to easily kill larvae in the soil. Parasitic nematodes could be applied to the soil, but it is probably too cold to use them this year. The simplest solution would be to treat the new tree with a systemic insecticide that gets absorbed into the plant. I recommend Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Insect Control. It is applied with a watering can at the roots, and protects the tree for 12 months. Pictures: U. Idaho, Ohio State U. October 11, 2006
I have chrysanthemums in flower pots decorating my house. Can I plant them in the ground after Halloween, and still have them come back next year?
Fairview Park, Ohio
There is not much chance for chrysanthemums planted this late in the year to develop a root system sufficient to bring it back next year. More than likely, frost will heave the plant out of the ground during the winter. There is nothing to lose by trying, however. Plant the mums as soon as you can, and don't cut back the tops until spring. Add 3 to 4 inches of dry mulch over the base to help prevent heaving. Mums are notorious for dying over winter, but these techniques will give you the best hope.
October 10, 2006
How do I store my dahlia tubers after I dig them up this fall?
Westlake, Ohio
Tender "bulbs" like dahlias, begonias, cannas, calla lilies, caladiums, and gladiolus should be dug up after the leaves have turned yellow. Cut the leaves down to a manageable size, around an inch or two above the bulb. Let the bulbs dry for a couple days in a cool, dry area. It should then be easier to remove dried soil, dangling roots and leaf stalks. You may treat the bulbs at this point with a chemical or organic fungicide to help prevent rot.
Store the bulbs in a single layer, in a breathable container, such as a cardboard box or paper bag. Use peat moss or shredded newspaper as packing material to keep the bulbs safe and dry. Store the container in a cool, dry place until spring. Don't forget to check them periodically during the winter, so that if one starts to rot it won't ruin the other bulbs.
August 30, 2006
Can I cut a burning bush fairly close to the ground about now so I can stain the side of our garage, I just can't get close to do the work. Also we have a flowering cherry tree, how long should we let the overhanging branches droop down to. Is it bad if they touch the ground? Should we trim the branches half way up from the ground to keep it neat?
Berea, Ohio
Yes, you can cut the burning bush (Euonymus alata) all the way down to a short stump, and it will grow back, as long as it is well established (in that spot for over 3 years). On the weeping cherry tree, I would trim the branches halfway up, which will give it room to grow next year without touching the ground.
©2008 Roger S. Bolger.
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Root
weevil larva
White grub
larva
