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I have a mature weeping cherry tree that just finished flowering beautifully (pinkish-white).  It is about 6 inches in diameter at the base.  However, as the flowers disappeared, I noticed that some branches were infested with caterpillar worms. I hosed them down and then burned the cotton-like houses in which they were living. I noticed that this year, I have absolutely no leaves on my tree and this does not seem normal.  What should I do?

The caterpillars on your tree were a type of webworm or tent caterpillar. They only eat the leaves of the tree and can not kill the tree unless it was repeatedly stripped of leaves year after year.

It will take some time for the tree to waken dormant buds and produce new leaves. This should happen in the next few weeks. A mature tree with no other problems will be able to easily recover from this type of problem.

These grass mixtures are generally cheap mixes of seed that are not as good as those sold by reputable companies for similar or even lower prices. These grasses often contain high quantities of annual ryegrass, a fast growing grass that only lives for one season before dying out. In the meantime it produces very stiff stalks that are unpleasant to walk on and look worse with age. Other mixes contain grasses that have undesirable characteristics that the ads are very careful to talk around. For example, zoysia grass is brown and dormant seven or eight months of the year in Ohio's climate, and spreads aggressively into flower beds and neighbors' lawns when it is growing. If the ad does not explicitly state the types of grass and the proportions of each type, do not buy it.

Many of these companies rely on testimonials from the first few weeks when nearly any grass will look good. Claims that a special grass mixture will grow on concrete are true, but only because any grass will grow on concrete as long as it is never allowed to dry out for even an hour. The same goes for claims that the grass will grow anywhere in the country; they just don't tell you how long it will actually grow, and how well it will perform over time. If you want a lawn that will look good year-round, there are no shortcuts. You must use a grass that is suited to your particular climate, prepare the soil so the grass can establish as strong, deep root system, and perform regular and appropriate maintenance.

Here is what is going on in a lawn I inherited from my grandma: 

1. Grubs did a lot of damage.

2. Leaves that weren't raked up killed the grass and now some moss is growing.

3. The lawn is squishy.

4. The lawn is bumpy and uneven.

5. Some mulch was delivered on the lawn instead of driveway and has killed grass.

Can you please list what specific steps I need to take to repair my lawn?

You have some work to do, but it is not hopeless.

The first thing you need to do is rake up any leaves and mulch that are still on the lawn. 

Second, rake out the moss, or if there is too much moss to rake, use a moss killer to dry up the moss. Once the moss is gone or dried up, you may continue with these steps. 

Third, even out the lawn by adding a good quality topsoil to the low spots. You may also want to spread a thin layer of topsoil over killed grass if the soil is not visible through the dead grass. 

Fourth, apply starter fertilizer to the whole lawn. This will revitalize existing grass as well as help the grass seed. 

Fifth, spread grass seed over the topsoil and bare areas. 

Sixth, either lightly rake the seed into the soil so it is no more than one-eighth of an inch into the soil, or spread a light layer of peat moss (no more than one-eighth of an inch) over the top of the seed. 

Seventh, water the lawn thoroughly so that the top several inches of soil are moist. Keep the lawn moist ALL THE TIME until the grass is well up. This means that the soil should always be dark-colored from being damp. If the soil starts to turn light from drying out, water it immediately to avoid drying out and killing new grass seedlings. 

Eighth, mow as needed by the height of the grass, regardless of how new the seedlings are. Ninth, use a lawn weed killer to remove any weeds that come up once the new grass has grown enough to have been mowed at least four times. 

Last, use a grub preventer containing imidacloprid in late June or early July to prevent grub damage. Any grubs you have now are not feeding enough to do damage or ingest grub killer.

By July 4th you should have a nice looking lawn again.

The normal method for pruning sweet broom (Cytisus x spachianus) is to wait until it is finished blooming, and then trim back all the branches by about one third. At the same time, some of the oldest woody stems should be cut all the way back to the ground as they will not flower as well as new, young branches.

You will have difficulty pruning it into a tree form because the nature of this shrub is to grow with multiple stems.

My husband accidentally grabbed the crabgrass preventer instead of fertilizer and spread it on the garden, will it be safe to use the vegetables if they grow?

The crabgrass preventer is similar other products that are used to keep weeds out of vegetable farm crops. Food you grow there will be safe to eat.

The crabgrass preventer will stop all seeds from sprouting. If you plant to plant vegetable seeds in your garden, you will have to till the soil to release the seed-killing chemical barrier. If you are putting in vegetable plants that are already started, the crabgrass preventer will help keep weeds out of the vegetable garden.

Please note that although the crabgrass preventer should not pose a danger to you, that product is not labeled for this use and should not intentionally be applied to areas other than the lawn.

I recommend a lawn of Turf Type Tall Fescue. It is very heat and drought resistant, and actually performs better with less fertilizer and water. This grass will look very good in the hot, dry summer when other lawns start to brown. It will be browner than other lawns in the winter, but to me that is an acceptable trade off since the lawn will be snow covered for much of the winter.

Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer in April and again in September or October. Water only during extreme drought, once the lawn is established.

You will need to water daily while the seed is establishing. Sow the seed at a heavy rate, about nine ponds per thousand square feet. This will not only give you good, dense coverage, but it will ensure that the grass blades are medium thickness like a bluegrass / ryegrass lawn.

There are several types of "no mow" grasses out there, most of which should be called "low mow" as they require some mowing. Some consist only of fine fescues which will produce a spare lawn that does not tolerate a lot of foot traffic. Some are zoysia grass, which will be completely brown from the first frost in October to beyond the last frost in May - most of the year.

All will require that you let the grass grow to six to eight inches, which is much higher than the typical homeowner would like, and may even violate local property maintenance ordinances. Mowing regularly also discourages many weeds, which will need to be sprayed or pulled on a no mow lawn.

If you would like to try a no mow or low mow lawn, I would suggest starting with an out of the way area that will not affect the appearance of your home if you do not like it. See how it performs through at least one complete year before you decide to replace other areas of your lawn. You will also need some time to see how it responds to your care, since these types of lawns are entirely different from regular lawns we all grew up with. The tall fescue lawn I suggest is a good compromise in the meantime - it offers the appearance of a traditional lawn with less fertilizer and watering.

Part 2:

I don't think the "no mow/low mow" is right for me.  I want a nice looking yard, and this type of seed sounds like it will have a "shaggy" look. I did a quick search and come up with different varieties of Turf Type Tall Fescue - is there one you recommend over another? I have had three landscapers out and all have told me they use "Fairlawn Blend". Is this a Turf Type Tall Fescue?  Where would I purchase the Turf Type Tall Fescue? 

You also mentioned that I only need to fertilize 2 times a year. I used to use a four step program plus a winterizing fertilizer. Is this no longer necessary?

Any of the modern tall fescue varieties should be OK. I would use a blend of at least three different varieties for genetic diversity and greater pest resistance.

The Fairlawn Mix that I am familiar with is a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and fine fescue. It is a typical sun and shade mixture and is the traditional type of lawn that has been used in Ohio for decades.

Tall fescue does not require the same high maintenance as bluegrass / ryegrass / fescue lawns, which need regular feeding throughout the year. Tall fescue actually looks better when it is fertilized minimally and watered little. When I first changed my front lawn to tall fescue several years ago I made the mistake of maintaining the five feedings and watering regularly. The lawn looked thin and off green. When I changed to use only the first step (crabgrass preventer plus fertilizer) and a last step (either regular fertilizer or a "winterizer") and stopped watering, the lawn did much better. I also overseed in the fall to keep the lawn thick.

One last thing about tall fescue: if you are not currently mowing your lawn high, you definitely need to with tall fescue. Cut short for the first mowing of the year to remove brown dead blades, then mow at a height of three inches. This will allow the tall fescue to send its roots deep enough to find enough water on its own.

April 19, 2008

We have an indoor ti plant that has grown out of control. The two longest and least attractive stems appear to be the main trunk of the plant, which is the size of a woman's fist at the soil line. How do we prune off these two tall and scraggly stems without killing the rest of the plant? Must it be done with the plant removed from the pot? Also, it grows in twisted stems as it seeks the southern light.

There are a few approaches you might take. Without seeing a photo of the ti plant (Cordyline terminalis), I can not give you more specific information. The first is to prune back the longest stems to about a half inch above where they branch out (if they do branch out). The second method is to cut back the plant severely to the trunk and allow it to regrow from the trunk. The third approach is to take cuttings from the plant and start a new ti plant from scratch.

If the stems are getting tall and thin, and it is twisting to reach the light, it sounds as if the plant needs to be in brighter light. This will cause the stems to grow thick and stocky. Rotate the plant a quarter turn every few weeks to keep the growth even and avoid leaning or twisting.

I just put down grass seed. How long do I have to water it every day to be effective? Also, I would like to know how long should I wait after using a four step fertilizer until my pets and I can go on the lawn?

Water the grass seed often enough so that the soil is always dark from being moist. If the top starts to dry out and lighten up, there is a danger that the grass seedlings will dry out and die, requiring another seeding. Do this for at least 3 weeks, until the grass is well up, having been mowed at least 3 times.

After applying the first step, water it in thoroughly and stay off the lawn until it has dried.

I am planning on removing my current lawn this spring, and preparing and seeding a new lawn. How early this spring can I safely reseed?  I have been finding conflicting information regarding the optimum date for spring grass seeding; the answers range from early spring (March, April) to after the last frost (late May). I was hoping to seed as early as possible without taking unnecessary risk. Thanks for your help!

April 2, 2008

I recently got two new dogs who have grown to be 60 to 70 lbs and they are taking a toll on my landscaping. They have destroyed rhododendrons, azaleas, barberries, and my other leafy plants. They seem to stay away from spruce since it is more prickly, but I do not want a yard full of spruce.

Are there any shrubs that are more pliable or will stand up to these monsters more than others? One corner of my backyard gets little sunlight so my options are limited. Can you help me find plants that are pet friendly in two ways (in case they eat it, and in case they wrestle and fall into it). Two years ago I put in nice beds in my small back yard surrounded by stone so I don't just want to throw Taxus in there. Please help!

Lakewood, Ohio

Keeping large dogs out of planting beds takes three approaches. First, observe carefully where your dogs like to run and play, and do not plant anything in those locations. Many dogs like to run along fences to patrol their boundaries, but these are also prime locations for flower and shrub borders. Dogs will often have a set pattern of places to check out on each visit to the yard. Make sure there are no plants that become barriers across their paths, or these plants will be the first to be destroyed. Build the garden around the dogs' habits.

Second, put in larger plants and create thick, dense plantings. If it looks like there is no way to get through, the dogs will be less likely to try to get in there. Make sure they have other places to find shade. Add some places where they can lie down and feel hidden, but still have a good view of the yard and the neighborhood goings-on.

Third, your dogs will need to be trained to stay out of the planting beds. Start with temporary fencing, like three foot high chicken wire, around your beds. This is an especially good idea around newly planted beds. Once they get the idea that these are not places to play, and new plants have become well established, you can remove the fencing. In some cases, you may want to use low decorative fencing to reinforce the idea that these are not play zones. Constructing raised beds also helps in this regard. The plants you purchase will almost never be dog-proof when first planted. The loose soil around the planting hole will stimulate many dogs to dig. You must rely on fencing, training and good planning to keep new plants safe. 

The safety of your dogs must also be considered. Although the prickly spruce seems to be repelling the dogs, the thorny barberries apparently did not. Avoid thorny or spiny plants that could injure your dogs. The issue of toxic plants is a difficult one. Each species has a different list of plants that are toxic to them, so the list for people is different from the list for dogs, which is different from the one for cats, etc. Some plants, such as Taxus (yew), are very poisonous, but people and pets never try to eat them, so they pose no problem. The same goes for a number of vegetables, including the leaves of tomatoes and even lettuce (when consumed in large quantities). There are a number of online resources for poisonous plants, and I recommend you print them and take them with you as you shop for plants. Start with the ASPCA's list.

With that said, here are some plants that may stand up to an occasional encounter with large dogs.

For sun: service berry (Amelanchier), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), burning bush (Euonymus alata), forsythia, rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus),  juniper, privet (Ligustrum), Nanking cherry (Prunus tomentosa), elderberry (Sambucus), lilac (Syringa), arborvitae (Thuja).

For part shade: boxwood (Buxus), witch hazel (Hamamelis), holly (Ilex), Kerria, Oregon grape holly (Mahonia), viburnum.

Consider using "dog-gone plant" (Coleus canina) as part of your training efforts. It is not very showy, but it is said to have a smell that dogs do not like, so it may help you keep them out of your beds.

April 1, 2008

I would like some advice on lawn care.  We are looking to reseed our backyard and it is very shady, and also has areas that are mossy.  We also have three large dogs, so we need a grass that will withstand the traffic and shade.  Also, is it best to seed over the existing grass, or bring in topsoil prior to reseeding?  Thanks for your help.

Northeast Ohio

You certainly have a challenge. All types of turf grass prefer full sun, at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Grasses in seed mixes labeled for shade will only tolerate shade better than other types of grass. It is also very difficult to keep a nice lawn with dogs. Dogs like to walk the same paths which can produce trails of thin grass or bare spots, and their urine may create brown patches. A lawn that has both of these factors will need some extra maintenance, and I have a few suggestions to reduce wear from the dogs.

If your dogs produce a lot of wear in particular areas of the lawn, consider alternatives to grass for those locations. If they run along certain paths all the time, such as along a fence, you could put in a pathway covered with bark mulch, decorative gravel or pavers. This way the dogs will stay clean and will not damage grass as they patrol their yard. If they have a particular bathroom area that they use more often, creating a mulch bed there will prevent grass damage and may also reinforce the notion that this is their bathroom area and the rest of the yard may stay cleaner.

Among turf grass species, tall fescue is the most traffic tolerant but will take only light shade, fine fescue is the most shade tolerant but does not handle traffic well, and bluegrass recovers from damage the quickest but is only moderate in dealing with shade and traffic. I would recommend a mixture of all three species. You will probably have to buy them separately and mix them together yourself. I would use around 70% tall fescue, 15% fine fescue and 15% shade-tolerant bluegrass by weight.

Prepare the area to be reseeded by raking off the moss and brown grass so that you can see the soil through the remaining grass. If there is too much moss to rake out, use a granular or liquid moss killer to dry up the moss before raking. Unless you have low areas to fill in, I would not bring in topsoil. There are always weed seeds in topsoil, and the dogs would make a mess getting into the loose soil. Covering tree roots with soil is also potentially harmful to the trees. I recommend against tilling the soil for similar reasons.

After spreading the seed, rake the grass again to make sure the seed has fallen all the way through to the soil. Apply a starter fertilizer and keep the areas well watered if spring rains are not sufficient. The new seed should sprout in two weeks or so, depending on temperatures. It is fine to sow grass seed now through mid-May. Do NOT use a fertilizer with crabgrass preventer because the preventer will also kill the grass seed. Mow the grass as needed and do not use any weed killers until the new grass has grown enough to be mown at least four times.

Lawns under trees may need to be reseeded each year, especially with dogs. Fertilize in spring and fall, but avoid summer fertilizers. During times of drought, water deeply but infrequently, and increase the amount of water because the trees will take much of it. The lawn will start to thin out during the summer as the grass competes with the trees for sun and moisture. It helps to have the trees limbed up (remove the lowest branches) to allow more sun to filter through. If some spots are super shady, consider replacing the turf grass with shade loving perennials, shrubs or groundcover plants.

March 26, 2008

I thought I needed to cut down my coral bells before winter as I would for other perennials. Will they come back this spring?

Your coral bells should be fine, and leaves should come up again in mid- to late spring. Coral bells are considered "evergreen" and will keep their leaves over winter. They make new leaves each year, so these new leaves should come out when the plant begins to grow.

Although your coral bells should come back just fine, it is best to let the leaves remain over the winter. The old leaves keep the crown of the plant protected, and the plant does not have to use as much stored energy if it doesn't have to produce all new leaves every spring.

March 18, 2008

Since the cost of watering has increased so drastically, I want my mostly bluegrass lawn to be more drought tolerant.  I would like to top seed the lawn with a grass that is more tolerant to heat and drought. Can you give me some choices to pick from?

Euclid, Ohio

You are not alone in wanting to reduce the amount of water used on your lawn. The best turf grasses for reducing water use in our part of the country are the fescues. They have a deeper root system than bluegrasses and ryegrasses and can therefore deal with dry conditions, once established.

For a shady lawn, fine fescues, including creeping red fescue, hard fescue and chewings fescue are appropriate. These are very fine bladed grasses and will better tolerate the dry conditions found in shade. Fine fescues can be top seeded over bluegrass and ryegrass.

For sunny areas, your best choice is tall fescue. Unfortunately, tall fescue will not look right if it is seeded over top of an existing bluegrass / ryegrass lawn. When the existing lawn begins to grow again this spring, spray it with Roundup to kill all the existing grass. Be careful to keep the Roundup and any drifting spray away from trees, shrubs and flowers as Roundup will kill or damage anything if it gets on the leaves. (Rinse immediately with water if this happens). Once the existing lawn is brown, rake off enough of the dead grass so you can see the soil through it. Apply tall fescue seed at a rate of 8 pounds per 1000 square feet. Keep the seed well watered until it has grown enough to be mowed 4 times. Hopefully spring rains will take care of most of this, but be careful not to let the seedlings dry out - they will die and you will have to start over.

Tall fescue lawns look better in the summer than bluegrass lawns with less fertilizer and water. In fact, if you fertilize and water "normally" the lawn will suffer. Fertilize once in spring and once in fall, and once the grass is well established, water only during periods of prolonged drought. When you do water, water deeply but infrequently - in other words, give the lawn enough water to soak down several inches into the soil, and then let the roots chase down after the water as it gets lower in the soil. Frequent light watering will encourage shallow roots that dry out quickly.

March 11, 2008

Does feeding birds now in the winter assure you of visits all year long if you continue to feed them?

Fairview Park, Ohio

The short answer is yes, feeding birds regularly at any time of year will encourage them to keep visiting for free meals. Some birds migrate, and studies have shown that feeding birds does not keep them from migrating, so seasonal birds will come and go throughout the year. If predators such as hawks, owls, or cats have been stalking your feeding station, birds will come less often or not at all until the predator moves on. Birds raising young will need extra protein in their diet, so they may be spending more time hunting insects and less time at the feeder. If you want to have regular visits from birds, the best thing you can do is keep your feeders clean and filled.

March 10, 2008

I need a groundcover for a woodland area, but I don't want anything that will be too invasive and take over my yard. I live in zone 7. Any suggestions?

It can be hard to find a plant that will spread enough to cover the soil and keep weeds down, while at the same time staying within the area you would like it to grow. The plants in the following list fall toward the middle of the spectrum, with well-behaved plants that will take some time to completely fill in, and others that will fill in quickly but may occasionally need to be kept within bounds. These plants should do well in light to moderate shade.

My favorites include Canadian wild ginger, ferns, hellebores, coral bells, climbing hydrangea and Labrador violet.

February 13, 2008

When is the best time to apply grub killer and then reseed the lawn?

Englewood, Ohio

The best time for reseeding is in early fall: mid-August through the end of September. After October 1 the grass seed will definitely sprout, but the grass seedlings may not mature enough to survive the winter. The next best time to seed the lawn is April and May. You could also apply grass seed to the lawn now, since the freezing and thawing cycle will help the grass seed wedge into the soil. The grass will begin to sprout in April. After sowing grass seed, be sure to use a starter fertilizer in spring in place of a crabgrass-preventing fertilizer. The ingredient that prevents crabgrass will kill the grass seedlings.

The best strategy to treat grubs is to use a season-long preventative treatment that contains imidacloprid between May and July. This will kill grubs as they hatch from the eggs all summer, and they will not be able to damage the lawn. If you wait until after August 15, the grubs will be too large to control with imidacloprid. You will have to use a 24-hour grub killer containing Dylox, which is more expensive and a much stronger chemical. This will work until the grubs stop feeding in mid-October. If you miss the fall treatment period, you could try the 24-hour killer in the spring between March and April, but by then the grubs have already done all their damage.  In addition, very few will be killed at this time due to their large size. One treatment with the preventative season-long imidacloprid between May and July will get grubs before they cause damage and uses a less toxic method. 

February 9, 2008

When is the best time to burn a fine fescue lawn? There is a lot of dead grass and my yard is very thick.

Kansas

Burning a lawn to remove excess dried grass stems and leaves can be dangerous and illegal (check your local ordinances). Some field managers will burn a fescue pasture, or a field of fescue raised to produce commercial-grade lawn seed. In these cases, the fields are not mown and there are literally tons of hay and straw on the surface. Burning the field eliminates the need to dispose of the straw, while on a home lawn the few inches of brown leaves are easily handled. Burning also reduces field-type weeds and diseases. Weeds and diseases in home lawns are not as susceptible to burning as there simply isn't enough straw to provide the necessary heat.

The best way to prepare your lawn for spring is to mow it very low, to about an inch and a half, and bag the clippings. This will remove all the debris that may choke out the grass plants as they begin to grow in the spring. This will also expose the sensitive crowns to the elements, so wait until there is little chance of heavy, prolonged freezes. The end of March or beginning of April should be fine.

For optimal lawn health, fertilize the lawn in late fall with a slow-release fertilizer as the growth stops. These nutrients will help establish a strong and deep root system with plenty of nutrients stored for the spring. Make your last cut to a height of two inches and keep leaves raked off the lawn. Excessive debris on the lawn surface may cause the crowns to rot during the winter. Fertilize again with a slow-release fertilizer in spring after growth resumes and the lawn requires regular mowing.

February 9, 2008

I am in an area which was hit by a severe frost a few weeks ago.  Several dracaenas which had been transplanted in October are looking pretty sad.  The fronds are either brown or gone.  Should they be cut back and to what point do you cut them? Can these come back or should they be discarded?  They still feel firmly rooted in the ground.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tampa, Florida

Dracaenas can can deal with light frosts. The leaves will be the first to be damaged, and they will turn brown and fall off. If the cold continues for many hours, or the temperature falls too far below freezing, the stem will become damaged. Areas of the stem that froze will become soft and mushy once it has had time to thaw. After a while these sections will shrivel.

The National Weather Service weather records for Tampa show a low of 29 degrees on January 3. This is certainly low enough to take out the leaves. If the stems are still firm and healthy, just trim off all the damaged leaves close to the main stems. If there are soft spots on any of the stems, cut them down to a few inches below the soft parts. Don’t trim the stem if it seems okay, since it will take longer for a cut stem to sprout than an intact stem.

The stems should soon re-sprout new leaves, and the dracaenas will be as good as new. Plants that had their stems cut should take longer to grow back. They should begin to recover, or at least show signs of growth, by mid-March.

January 26, 2008

What is the best time of year to start lettuce seeds indoors, and what is the best time to plant them outside? Last year we planted lettuce in May, and we were told it was too late. The lettuce came up, but it seemed bitter.

Sandusky, Ohio

Based on an average last frost date of May 20, you should start lettuce seeds indoors around the first of April, and transplant them outside about three weeks later. Be sure to let the seedlings get gradually accustomed to the strong outdoor sunlight and cooler temperatures. Start by putting them in a shady spot during the day, and bring them indoors overnight. Over the course of a week or so, increase the amount of sunlight and the duration of cold that the plants receive. 

Lettuce is a cool-season crop and can withstand light frosts. In hot weather, lettuce "bolts," or begins to prepare for flowering. This changes the internal chemistry of the plants and makes them taste bitter. Plant lettuce out early to get a good harvest before the heat of summer, and choose varieties labeled as "bolt-resistant". I plant rows of lettuce between warm-season crops like peppers and tomatoes. As the weather turns warm, the taller plants shade the lettuce and give an extra week or so before they turn bitter.

For more information on when to start seeds or plant outdoors, download my Spring Seed Starting Calendar on the factsheet page.

January 3, 2008

I have been told that squishing cockroaches will make them release their eggs and make more roaches. This sounds implausible to me, what do you think?

Strongsville, Ohio

It is implausible that cockroach eggs would survive the average stomp with a shoe. The female cockroach creates an egg case of between 6 and 40 eggs, and carries it around on her body for a few days before depositing them.  Some people believe that stepping on a cockroach may spread these eggs around and create more cockroaches. A cockroach egg case averages about the size of a pea. Nothing this size of is likely to withstand a foot step. The eggs are pretty fragile, and even if an egg was to lodge in a crevice of a sneaker's tread, it is unlikely to survive until hatching. Stomping on cockroaches is an environmentally friendly way to control the pest population.

©2008 Roger S. Bolger.

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